{"id":4091,"date":"2026-11-03T21:37:33","date_gmt":"2026-11-03T19:37:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/nailono-gijos-dziovinimas-laikymas\/"},"modified":"2026-11-03T21:37:33","modified_gmt":"2026-11-03T19:37:33","slug":"nailono-gijos-dziovinimas-laikymas","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/nailono-gijos-dziovinimas-laikymas\/","title":{"rendered":"Nailono (PA, PA-CF) gij\u0173 d\u017eiovinimas ir laikymas: kod\u0117l dr\u0117gm\u0117 gadina detales"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Nylon (PA \u2013 polyamide) is one of the best filaments for functional spare parts: gears, bushings, sliders, brackets. But it has one quirk \u2013 <strong>it absorbs moisture from the air<\/strong>. Damp nylon filament crackles when printing, and parts come out with bubbles, rough and weaker than they should be. The good news: the problem is easy to solve once you know how to dry and store the filament.<\/p>\n<h2>Why nylon \u201cfears\u201d moisture<\/h2>\n<p>Nylon is a hygroscopic material \u2013 it draws water molecules from the surrounding air. A reel freshly opened from vacuum packaging is dry, but if left in open air it can absorb moisture within a few days, and even faster in a humid room.<\/p>\n<p>When damp filament enters a hot nozzle (nylon usually needs 240\u2013300 \u00b0C), the water instantly turns to steam. As a result:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>you hear <strong>crackling or popping<\/strong> \u2013 this is the first sign that the filament needs drying (as Polymaker also recommends);<\/li>\n<li>the surface becomes <strong>rough, with bubbles and pits<\/strong>;<\/li>\n<li>more <strong>\u201cstringing\u201d<\/strong> appears between parts of the print;<\/li>\n<li>layers bond worse \u2013 <strong>the part is weaker<\/strong>, and may split between layers;<\/li>\n<li>dimensional accuracy suffers.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>For a functional part, this is the worst outcome: it looks neat, but breaks sooner than it should.<\/p>\n<h2>How to dry nylon filament<\/h2>\n<p>Always take the drying temperature and time from the specific filament manufacturer's technical data sheet (TDS) \u2013 different nylons and additives have different recommendations. For example, Polymaker <a href=\"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/product\/fiberon-pa6-cf20-polymaker-gija-175-mm-juoda-black\/\">Fiberon PA6-CF20<\/a> data sheet specifies: dry at <strong>100 \u00b0C, for 10 hours<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Method<\/th>\n<th>Advantages<\/th>\n<th>Things to note<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>Filament dryer<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>Simple; the reel can stay in the dryer while printing<\/td>\n<td>Check that it reaches the temperature specified by the manufacturer \u2013 nylon needs more than PLA or PETG<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>Oven with accurate temperature<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>Reaches high temperatures<\/td>\n<td>Household oven temperature can fluctuate \u2013 check with a thermometer; the reel housing must withstand that temperature<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>Printer heated bed<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>No extra equipment needed<\/td>\n<td>Unreliable \u2013 the reel heats unevenly, and often isn't enough for nylon<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>For some filaments, the manufacturer recommends printing directly from a heated dryer. For example, the Polymaker Fiberon PA6-CF20 and PA612-ESD descriptions state that the filament must stay in the dryer for the entire printing time.<\/p>\n<h2>How to store it so you don't have to dry it every time<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Airtight box with desiccant.<\/strong> A plastic box with a gasket and silica gel packs is the cheapest solution. Polymaker advises storing and using PA6-CF20 filament in a dry environment where <strong>relative humidity is below 20%<\/strong>.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Humidity gauge in the box.<\/strong> Without one you won't know whether the desiccant still works. A simple hygrometer will do, e.g., <a href=\"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/product\/uni-t-ut333\/\">UNI-T UT333<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Vacuum bags.<\/strong> Suitable for longer storage \u2013 especially if you print nylon infrequently.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Don't open the packaging in advance.<\/strong> The factory reel is usually in a vacuum bag with a desiccant \u2013 open it only when you are ready to print.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>What about a part that has already been printed?<\/h2>\n<p>Nylon absorbs moisture, and so does the printed part. This is not all bad: moist nylon becomes slightly more flexible and impact-resistant, but less stiff. That is why manufacturers often list properties for both dry and 'conditioned' (moisture-saturated) parts in their data sheets. If stiffness and dimensional accuracy matter for your part, bear in mind that its properties will change slightly in use.<\/p>\n<p>For some nylon filaments, the manufacturer also recommends annealing (cf. <em>annealing<\/em>) after printing \u2013 for example, the PA6-CF20 data sheet specifies 100 \u00b0C for 16 hours. Annealing dries the part, so afterwards it absorbs moisture from the environment again.<\/p>\n<p>One more practical tip: if you print supports from the same nylon, Polymaker advises removing them before the part absorbs moisture \u2013 otherwise the supports may become stuck permanently.<\/p>\n<h2>Which nylon to choose<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/product\/devil-design-pa12-175-natural\/\">PA12 (Devil Design)<\/a> \u2013 pure nylon without fibre additives, suitable for sliders, bushings and more flexible parts.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/product\/fiberon-pa612-cf15-polymaker-gija-175-mm-juoda-black\/\">PA612-CF15<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/product\/rosa-3d-5907753130181\/\">PA12 + 15 % CF (Rosa3D)<\/a> \u2013 with carbon fibre, stiffer parts: holders, jigs.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/product\/fiberon-pa6-gf25-polymaker-gija-175-mm-pilka-grey\/\">PA6-GF25<\/a> \u2013 with glass fibre, for strong engineering parts.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Carbon fibre and glass fibre filaments are abrasive \u2013 they require a hardened nozzle. You can read more about this in our article <a href=\"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/anglies-pluosto-cf-gijos-antgalis-spausdinimas\/\">'Carbon fibre (CF) filaments: when worth it, what nozzle is needed'<\/a>, and find a comparison of materials in the article <a href=\"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/gija-atsarginems-detalems-pla-petg-asa-pa-cf\/\">\"Which filament to choose for spare parts\"<\/a>.<\/p>\n<h2>Short checklist<\/h2>\n<ol>\n<li>Before printing, dry the filament according to the manufacturer's TDS.<\/li>\n<li>Print from a drying box or a sealed container.<\/li>\n<li>If you hear crackling, stop and dry the filament.<\/li>\n<li>After work, put the reel straight into a sealed box with a desiccant and a hygrometer.<\/li>\n<li>Keep in mind that the printed part will absorb some moisture in use.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h2>How to find them on inteq.lt<\/h2>\n<p>You can find all nylon and other engineering filaments in the category <a href=\"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/product-category\/3d-spausdinimas\/3d-gijos\/\">Filaments<\/a>. In the search you can enter the manufacturer's code or upload a \ud83d\udcf7 photo \u2013 the system will suggest a match and alternatives. If you are looking for a specific filament or are not sure which one will suit your part, send us an enquiry and we will find it.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Wet nylon filament crackles, and parts come out rough and weak. How to recognise moisture, how to dry PA and PA-CF filaments, and how to store them.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4092,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[2495],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4091","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-atsargines-dalys-ir-remontas"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4091","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=4091"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4091\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4092"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=4091"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=4091"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/inteq.lt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=4091"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}